Welcome

Welcome to alpine rock climbing and mountaineering

Dear Climbing Friends,

We climb in the high alpine granite at the glaciated and scenic Durrand Glacier - Mt.Moloch area, Northern Selkirk Mountains B.C.

Most climbers and mountaineers who are in search of the finest alpine rock routes of North America, most likely have never heard about the superb granite routes in the Durrand Glacier - Mt.Moloch area. This is not because this high alpine area is short of solid granite rock and impressive long routes with amazing climbing. The Durrand Glacier - Mt.Moloch area is located in the heart of the glaciated and rugged Northern Selkirk Mountains, 45 km to 55 km north-east of Revelstoke BC, an area which is completely surrounded by an endless sea of alpine peaks and the complete wilderness of deep forested valleys, far from civilization. The only access into this truly incredible alpine rock area is by helicopter from Revelstoke BC. With this extreme remoteness it is guaranteed that during your alpine climbing experience in the Durrand Glacier - Mt.Moloch area you will not see any other climbers. Its remoteness makes this beautiful area less famous than other areas of North America or the European Alps. After having climbed and guided guests all over the world, I am convinced that you will have the most amazing time of your life while climbing easier or harder alpine rock routes of various lengths in this very special area.

The alpine rock routes at the Durrand Glacier - Mt.Molch area offer a huge variety of routes for every ability level and desire. The length of the many climbs vary from shorter routes to very long alpine rock routes, the difficulties can be as low as scrambling alpine rock routes to climbs with very difficult and technical grades and then there is the scenery which completely changes from one climb to the next. There is only one single character all climbs have in common, all climbs are in a pristine and absolutely unspoiled high alpine setting with glacier approaches that range from 10 minutes to 1¾ hrs. from the scenic Mt.Moloch Chalet to the start of the climb.

Over the past years I have developed this unknown alpine rock area, with over 150 alpine routes and made them safe for climbers and to be guided. Today I can truly say that the Durrand Glacier - Mt.Moloch area is one of the most established alpine rock areas in North America. I can honestly say that there is absolutely no other area I like as much as this special gem in the heart of the Northern Selkirk Mountains... it is my home.

Of course being in the mountains is not just about climbing and all the individual moves on beautiful rock or on ice. It is about being in the most impressive alpine terrain and pursuing our passion in form of an adventure that we can make as challenging or relaxing as we like. Departing in the early morning hours from the comfortable and incredible Mt.Moloch Chalet, walking across a glacier to the start of a climb as the early morning sun starts to shine on the towering high mountains. Then there is the climb, we reach elevation as we move rope-pitch for rope-pitch up, enjoying the challenging climb and a special friendship in between us climbers. The glaciers are far below and the skyline of the jagged granite-ridges is becoming closer to us. Then there we are, on the top of an outstanding mountain, we reflect on the untouched and most incredible high alpine scenery and think about an amazing and memorable climb we just have experienced. Finally we are back at the Mt.Moloch Chalet, sitting on the scenic sun-deck, having the special "Moloch Grilled Cheese Sandwich", with a beer, a glass of wine or maybe with tea... and simply feeling good to be in this special area without seeing any other people. How much better can it really get... ?

I am looking forward to share the rope with you.

Ruedi Beglinger
Swiss-Canadian Mountain Guide
I.F.M.G.A./S.B.V./A.C.M.G.

SME alpine rock climbing and mountaineering

Molch hut - SME alpine rock climbing and mountaineering