Selkirk Mountain Experience

Biography of Ruedi Beglinger

Ruedi Beglinger

I grew up in a mountain village, in the Kanton of Glarus, in the Swiss Alps, in a family where mountaineering and skiing is "what you do". On weekends and during the summer holidays my family packed the packs with food and clothing and off we went, the destination a small hut in the high mountains.

It was naturally for me to spend time in the mountains, ski race, ski touring, hiking or climbing. It took me a few years until I realized how lucky I am, growing up in the mountains and having parents who have shown me what an amazing life the mountains give us, "we just have to recognize it". Already at the age of 15 I realized that steeper and more challenging mountains mean a lot to me. Hard alpine rock routes and mixed alpine faces became my playground. I was 22 years of age when I received the "Bergfuehrerpatent" (Mountain Guide Certification) by the Swiss and International Mountain Guide Association. My dreams became reality, guiding people on great alpine routes and amazing ski-tours and in addition I got paid. How much better can life really be.

In 1980 I immigrated to Canada and promoted European style ski-mountaineering in the Canadian Rockies and the Northern Selkirk Mountains, something which was at the time definitely not known in the USA and in Canada. It was a tough journey and required a lot of education of skiers about "my" style of guiding ski mountaineering. In addition, in 1985 I founded Selkirk Mountain Experience and built the Durrand Glacier Chalet, a remote alpine lodge in the heart of the Northern Selkirk Mountains. Finally, in the late eighties it all paid off. Guiding ski-mountaineering in Canada reached big success and became worldwide highly regarded. European style ski-mountaineering became accepted in Canada.

I can definitely say that I have the best life. Living with my wife Nicoline and the two daughters Charlotte and Florina at the remote Durrand Glacier Chalet. Guiding guests on great ski tours with endless powder and guiding climbing guests on long alpine rock routes... in an area where there is really nobody else except me and my guests. Every year, when the ski season comes to an end at Canada's Durrand Glacier I then fly to the European Alps and guide the Haute Route, Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa and great tours and peaks in many other areas of the Alps where the deep mountain culture is readable on every rock and mountain slope.

I think my biggest achievement is that I am able to have a deep passion toward the mountains and my profession, guide people in the most incredible ski terrain and take them on harder and easier alpine routes. For me it is not about all the extreme ski descents I have done, guide ski-tours year after year well over one million vertical feet while breaking trail in deep powder, that I have pioneered many ski traverses in Canada, managed numerous expeditions to high altitude peaks and achieved over 250 first ascents in Canada and the European Alps; all these activities is just what I do in my life. However, for me life is all about being able to share something with my ski and climbing guests, which means everything to me. Being in the mountains and life live "every day is the best day".

Resume: Ruedi Beglinger

Professional Credentials:

  • I.F.M.G.A. Certified Mountain Guide, Canadian Mountain Guide Association (A.C.M.G) and Swiss Mountain Guide Association (S.B.V.)
  • Canadian Avalanche Association (CAA) Avalanche Operations Level 3 (applied avalanche risk management)
  • OEC Outdoor Emergency Care Technician

Professional member:

  • Swiss Mountain Guide Association S.B.V. since 1975
  • Canadian Mountain Guide Association A.C.M.G. since 1982
  • Canadian Avalanche Association C.A.A. since late eighties
  • International Mountain Guide Association I.F.M.G.A. since summer 1977

Background

Growing up: Linthal and Mollis, in the valley of Glarus, Swiss Alps

Started Skiing: Age 2 in Linthal, Swiss Alps

Family life-style as child: Mountain hiking, skiing, ski-mountaineering, summer mountaineering

My heros: Everybody who has a deep passion for the mountains and most of all my guests I get to guide in winter and summer.

First summer mountaineering tour: Gross Charpf 2794 m, Switzerland, age 5 with my father (some rock scrambling and overnight in a mountain hut, the Legler Huette).

First ski-mountaineering tour: Schilt 2300 m, Switzerland, age 6, with my father.

Youth Organization of Swiss Alpine Club: At age 14 joined the Youth Organization of the Swiss Alpine Club. At age 16 started to climb more challenging alpine routes across the Swiss Alps. Swiss Mountain Guide Association: at age 20 entered the training program to become a Mountain Guide. Passed the winter and summer Assistant Guide (Aspirant) courses in 1975. In 1977 passed all Full Guide courses and exams in St. Moritz, Switzerland. Became fully certified by the Swiss Mountain Guide Association (SVB) and the International Mountain Guide Association IFMGA.

1980: Immigrated to Canada on June 5th 1980.

1980: Level 2 professional avalanche certificate, CAA.

1981 to 1990: Two years full time and 6 years part time heliski-guiding in the Canadian Selkirk Mountains and Monashee Mountains. Also kept guiding in the Swiss Alps.

1985: Founded Selkirk Mountain Experience on June 14th 1985. Same year built the Durrand Glacier Chalet 1945 m.el, started guiding clients at Durrand Glacier in late November of the same year.

1986 to 1991: Instructor and examiner on Ski Guide and Mountain Guide courses with the Canadian Mountain Guide association ACMG.

1988: Built a second high alpine hut, the Mt. Moloch Chalet 2205 m. elevation, 8 km northeast of the Durrand Glacier Chalet.

1994: After 4 years negotiating with the Government of British Columbia, Selkirk Mountain Experience received from the Government of British Columbia all exclusive rights to the entire Durrand Glacier area. Helicopter skiing companies were no longer allowed to ski any parts of the Durrand Glacier area and also were no longer allowed to over-fly the area for heliskiing reasons. The Durrand Glacier area is the only ski-touring area in Western Canada which ever has received such exclusive privileges. The exclusive tenured area is 96.4 square kilometres or 23,821 acres in size.

2011: CAA Avalanche Operations Level 3 course.


"guiding guests in large terrain which offers beauty and wild challenges of the high-alpine is not just my deepest passion but also my inspiration"

Skiing

  • 180 to 200 days of guiding ski-mountaineering and powder-snow skiing each season.
  • Complete number of days guiding clients since 1985 on worldwide ski-mountaineering trips: 6230 days.
  • Reached the seasonal 1 million vertical foot-mark while guiding ski-mountaineering 21 times (counting up-hill only). Last time 2013 (1.15 million vertical feet). Record year 1.35 million vertical feet in ski-season 2002.
  • Repeated and pioneered numerous steep-skiing adventures, mostly Rodger's Pass BC and Mt.Moloch - Durrand Glacier area, Northern Selkirk Mountains BC
  • Pioneered 10 ski-traverses in Western Canada Selkirk Mountains and Monashee Range)
  • Guided the West Alp's Haute Route 61 times, different variations.
  • Guided 10 ski-expeditions to the high altitude peaks of the Wrangle - St.Elias Range (Canada and Alaska)

Mountaineering

  • Complete number of days guiding clients on technical mountaineering and ice / rock-climbing: 2550 days
  • 251 first ascents (mixed alpine ice and rock, alpine rock routes, sport climbing, ice climbing)
  • 4 high altitude mountaineering expeditions

Films

LET IT RIDE Locomotion Films snowboarded in film
AN DER INDIANERKUESTE Suddeutsches Fernsehen rock climbing in film
LET IT RIDE by Stephen Greenberg documentary (skiing) film

Books

  • Author: Revelstoke Rock, first rock-guide to Revelstoke rock climbing. ISBN 0-9733035-2-2
  • Author & publisher: Revelstoke Rocks, second rock-guide to Revelstoke rock climbing. ISBN 978-0-9865009-0-9

YouTube Videos

Skiing and climbing videos – cinematography and production by Ruedi Beglinger.

Three Marmots Skiing
Climbing at Canada's Durrand Glacier
Redlight District 5.14a
The Northern Shield 5.13b
Ace over Jack 5.13b
November 1st Snowpack
Durrand Glacier Snow-shoveling
Durrand Glacier tree-skiing
Skiing The Powder Line
Deep Powder
Skiing the Alpine
White Addiction
Three Chicks on a Mountain
Hut to hut Skiing at Durrand Glacier
Goodby Winter
Solo Ascent of Canada's Mt. Moloch
Easy Alpine Rock
Sentinel South Ridge
Mountain Goats at Canada's Durrand Glacier
Allalin Peak - Zigerschlitz

Guiding

Year Area Activity
1975 Swiss Alps Aspirant Guide courses, skiing mountaineering, climbing and mountaineering Working as Aspirant Guide in the Swiss Alps, ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering.
1976 Swiss Alps Working as Aspirant guide in the Swiss Alps, ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering.
1977 European Alps Full Mountain guide courses and exams in the Swiss Alps. Became internationally certified Mountain Guide with the IFMGA and SBV.
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, Dolomites, West Alps of France ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering.
1978 European Alps Guiding in the Swiss Alps, Dolomites, Austria, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering.
1979 European Alps Guiding in Nepal, Kalagandaki Valley, Thapa Peak 6012 meters
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, Austria, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc).
1980 European Alps Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France.
Ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc).
1981 Canada
European Alps
Working as helicopter skiing guide in Revelstoke B.C.
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France.
Ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering
1982 Canada
European Alps
Working as helicopter skiing guide in Revelstoke B.C.
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, Italy, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering
1983 Canada
European Alps
Working as helicopter skiing guide in Revelstoke B.C.
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc)
1984 Canada
European Alps
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, Austria, Italy, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering
1985 Canada
European Alps
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, Austria, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc)
1986 Canada Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies
1987 Canada
European Alps
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc)
1988 Canada
European Alps
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering
1989 Canada
European Alps
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc)
1990 Canada
European Alps
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering
1991 Canada

European Alps
Got married to Nicoline
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies
Guiding in the Swiss Alps
Climbing, mountaineering
1992 Canada

European Alps
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies
1.0 million vertical feet ski-touring
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc)
1993 Canada

European Alps
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies
1.1 million vertical feet ski-touring
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc)
1994 Canada

European Alps
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies
1.05 million vertical feet ski-touring
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa)
1995 Canada

European Alps
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies
1.2 million vertical feet ski-touring
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa)
1996 Canada

St. Elias Range, Yukon
European Alps
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies
1.3 million vertical feet ski-touring
Mt. Logan
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa)
1997 Canada

St. Elias Range, Yukon
European Alps
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies
1.25 million vertical feet ski-touring
Mt. Lucania, Mt. Steel
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa)
1998 Canada

European Alps
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies
1.2 million vertical feet ski-touring
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc)
1999 Canada

St. Elias Range, Yukon
European Alps
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies
1.15 million vertical feet ski-touring
Mt. Logan
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc)
2000 Canada

European Alps
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies
1.1 million vertical feet ski-touring
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc)
2001 Canada

St. Elias Range, Alaska
European Alps

Nepal
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies
1.25 million vertical feet ski-touring
Mt. Bona and Mt. Churchill
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc)
Trekking Peak, Kalapatar
2002 Canada

European Alps
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies
1.35 million vertical feet ski-touring
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering (Haute Route, Monte Rosa, Mont Blanc)
2003 Canada
St. Elias Range, Alaska
European Alps

Ecuador
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies
Mt. Bona and Mt. Churchill
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering (Haute Route, Monte Rosa)
Cotopaxi
2004 Canada

St. Elias Range, Alaska
European Alps
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies
1.1 million vertical feet ski-touring
Mt. Logan
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Berner Oberland, Monte Rosa, Mont Blanc)
2005 Canada

St. Elias Range, Alaska
European Alps
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies
1.15 million vertical feet ski-touring
Mt. Bona and Mt. Churchill
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Toedi, Monte Rosa)
2006 Canada

St. Elias Range, Alaska
European Alps
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies
1.2 million vertical feet ski-touring
Mt. St. Elias
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Monte Rosa , Mont Blanc, Berner Oberland)
2007 Canada

St. Elias Range, Alaska
and The Yukon
European Alps
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies
1.1 million vertical feet ski-touring
Mt. Logan

Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Bernina, Monte Rosa)
2008 Canada

St. Elias Range, Alaska
European Alps
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies
1.25 million vertical feet ski-touring
Mt. Bona and Mt. Churchill
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Berner Oberland, Monte Rosa, Mont Blanc
2009 Canada

European Alps
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies
1.0 million vertical feet ski-touring
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, Italy, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Cevedale - Ortler, Monte Rosa, Mont Blanc)
2010 Canada

European Alps
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies
1.1 million vertical feet ski-touring
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Monte Rosa, Mont Blanc)
2011 Canada

European Alps
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies
1.05 million vertical feet ski-touring
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, Austria, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Oetz Tal, Monte Rosa, Mont Blanc)
2012 Canada

European Alps
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies
1.1 million vertical feet ski-touring
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering (Berner Oberland, Haute Route, Monte Rosa, Mont Blanc)
2013 Canada

European Alps
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies
1.0 million vertical feet ski-touring
Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France
Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Toedi, Berner Oberland)

Most favoured ski-tours

Canada / USA: Europe:
Mt. Ruth – Ruth Glacier, Durrand Glacier Northern Selkirks
Mt. Graham – Super Couloir, Durrand Glacier Northern Selkirks
Mt. Graham – Graham Glacier – Zwilling's East – Zwilling's Glacier – Sentinel South – Moloch Chalet, Durrand Glacier Northern Selkirks
Mt. Baal, Durrand Glacier Northern Selkirks
Mt. Hallway, Northern Selkirks
Mt. Durrand North Face, Durrand Glacier Northern Selkirks
Mt. Macpherson, Revelstoke
Mt. Begbie, Revelstoke
Mt. Boney, Rogers Pass
Little Sifton, Rogers Pass
Mt. Rogers, Rogers Pass
Mt. Wheeler, Rogers Pass
Dawson Peaks, Rogers Pass
Tupper Traverse, Rogers Pass
Mt. Hector, Canadian Rockies
Mt. Bona, St. Elias Range, Alaska
Toedi (Glarus, Switzerland)
Palu traverse (Bernina, Switzerland)
Fiescherhorn (Berner Oberland, Switzerland)
Aebni Flue (Berner Oberland, Switzerland)
Silvretta (Austria)
Cevedale (Italy)
Oetztal Traverse (Austria)
Alp Hubel (Switzerland)
Monte Rosa (Switzerland)
Zumstein Spitze (Switzerland)
Mont Blanc du Tacul (France)
Mont Blanc Traverse (France)
Haute Route (Switzerland – France)
Grand Paradiso (Italy)

Most favoured climbing routes

Canada: Europe:
Mt. Alberta (Japanese Route), Canadian Rockies
Mt. Temple East Ridge, Canadian Rockies
Mt. Robson (Kain Route), Canadian Rockies
Mt. Sir Donald (NW Ridge), Rogers Pass
Mt. Tupper (Tupper Couloir - East Ridge), Rogers Pass
Mt. Sir Sanford (NW Ridge), Northern Selkirks
Mt. Tupper Integral East Ridge, Rogers Pass
Mt. Rogers West Ridge, Rogers Pass
Swiss Peaks Traverse (Rogers Pass)
Mt. Moloch East Ridge – South Face Route, Durrand Glacier Northern Selkirks
Salbyt Peak (Innominata Ridge), Durrand Glacier Northern Selkirks
Concordia Pillar (Viva La Vita), Durrand Glacier Northern Selkirks
Fridolin Peak (Fridolin Ridge), Durrand Glacier Northern Selkirks
Silent Peak (Domino Ridge), Durrand Glacier Northern Selkirks
Zwilling’s East (Table Ridge), Durrand Glacier Northern Selkirks
Mt. Baal, Durrand Glacier Northern Selkirks
Mt. Adamant (Integral NorthRidge), Northern Selkirks
Mt. Adamant (NE Ridge), Northern Selkirks
Howsers Spire (Beckey – Choinard), Bugaboo Mountains
Bugaboo Spire (NE Ridge), Bugaboo Mountains
Mt. Begbie (Integral Traverse east to west), Revelstoke
Pan America (Victor Lake Wall), Revelstoke
Eiger East Ridge (Mitellegi Grat), Swiss Alps
Finsteraarhorn, Swiss Alps
Monte Rosa Traverse, Swiss Alps
Liskamm Traverse, Swiss Alps
Toedi (West Face), Swiss Alps
Bernina (Bianca Grat), Swiss Alps
Salbitschijn (Westgrat), Swiss Alps
Wisshorn (Nordgrat), Swiss Alps
Nadelhorn – Lenzspitze – Dom Traverse, Swiss Alps
Obergabelhorn – Wellenkuppe Traverse, Swiss Alps
Mont Blanc Traverse, French Alps
Mont Blanc du Tacul (Gervasutti Pillar), French Alps
Mont Blanc (Brenva Spur), French Alps
Mont Blanc (Peuterey Ridge), French Alps
Grand Jorasses (Rochefort Ridge), French Alps
Matterhorn (Zmuttgrat), Swiss Alps

Ski Traverses in Canada

Year Area Route
1983 Southern Selkirk Mountains Rogers Pass - Albert Ice Field - Revelstoke (pioneered route)
1983 Northern Selkirk Mountains Sale Mountain - Albert Canyon (pioneered route)
1984 Southern Monashee Mountains Rainbow Creek - Mt.Skade - Mt.Macpherson - Revelstoke (guiding one client, pioneered route)
1993 Northern Monashee Mountains Borne Glacier – Bew Creek – Malakwa (guiding clients, pioneered route)
1994 Northern Selkirk Mountains Austerity Creek - Ed Falls Glacier - Adamant Glacier - Stitt Creek (guiding clients, pioneered route)
1995 Northern Monashee Mountains Borne Glacier - Bew Creek - Malakwa (guiding clients)
1995 Southern Selkirk Mountains Butter's Lake - Mt.Wheeler - Augustine Pk - Purity Pk - Van Horne Neve (guiding Clients, pioneered route)
1996 Northern Selkirk Mountains Argentine Glacier - Mt.Sorcerer - Mt.Baal (guiding clients, pioneered route)
1996 Northern Monashee Mountains Borne Glacier - Bew Creek - Malakwa (guiding clients)
1997 Northern Monashee Mountains Borne Glacier - Bew Creek - Malakwa (guiding clients)
1998 Southern Selkirk Mountains Battle Brook - Moby Dick - Prodeus Glacier - Charybdis Pk - Kelly Creek (guiding Clients, pioneered route)
1999 Northern Monashee Mountains Borne Glacier - Bew Creek - Malakwa (guiding clients)
2000 Northern Selkirk Mountains Sorcerer Mountain - Mt.Holway - Mt.Baal - Durrand Glacier (guiding clients, pioneered route)
2001 Northern Monashee Mountains Borne Glacier - Bew Creek - Malakwa (guiding clients)
2002 Southern Monashee Mountains Mt.Skade - Mt.Begbie - Revelstoke (guiding clients)
2009 Northern Selkirk Mountains Mt.Holway - Mt.Sisson - Mt.Baal - Mt.Graham - Durrand Glacier (guiding clients)
2010 Northern Monashee Mountains Borne Glacier - Big Eddy Glacier - Frysby Glacier - Jordan Creek
2011 Northern Monashee Horse Shoe Hat Pk – Big Eddy Glacier – Egg Horn – Frisby Glacier – Schrund Pk – Frisby Creek – Immagination Pk (guiding clients, pioneered route)

Most favoured Steep Skiing Routes in Canada

Year/ Area Route  
1981 - Canada Southern Monashee Mountains, Mt.Begbie, NW-Face 300/2000 v.m. up to 45º
1982 - Canada Roger's Pass, Mt.Roger's, SW-Couloir on W-Ridge 350/1580 v.m. up to 50º
1982 - Canada Roger's Pass, Mt.Sifton, SE-Face Couloir 320/1600 v.m. up to 55º
1982 - Canada Roger's Pass, Mt.Sifton, North Face 400/1000 v.m. up to 45º
1983 - Canada Southern Monashee Range, Mt.Begbie, Direct North Face 300/2000 v.m. up to 50º
1983 - Canada Roger's Pass, Mt.Smart, Direct North Face to Smart Creek and to Illecillawaet River (ascent and descent) 750/1750 v.m. up to 50º
1984 - Canada Roger's Pass, Mt.Boney, North Face - Hanging Glacier 500/1900 v.m. up to 58º
1984 - Canada Northern Selkirk Mtn. Mt.Klotz, Direct North Face 450/800 v.m. up to 45º
1986 - Canada Roger's Pass, Tupper - Camels, South Couloir 1000/1600 v.m. up to 50º
1986 - Canada Roger's Pass, Mt. MacDonald, Herdman Couloir 300/1400 v.m. up to 50º
1986 - Canada Durrand Glacier, Mt.Durrand, direct North Face 500/1000 v.m. up to 45º
1988 - Canada Durrand Glacier, Mt.Durrand, Center Couloir 500/1000 v.m. up to 55º
1988 - Canada Roger's Pass, Avalanche Peak, NW Couloir - NRC Gully 600/1450 v.m. up to 50º
1988 - Canada Roger's Pass, Mt. Green, North Couloir to Illecillawaet River (ascent and descent) 1500 v.m. up to 55º
1989 - Canada Durrand Glacier, Concordia Pillar, S Couloir 350/1000 v.m. up to 50º
1989 - Canada Durrand Glacier, Mt.Graham, Y-Couloir 770/1000 v.m. up to 55º
1989 - Canada Durrand Glacier, Concordia Pillar, Center-Couloir 350 v.m. up to 60º
1990 - Canada Durrand Glacier, Zwilling's East Peak, East Face Couloir 300/1000 v.m. up to 45º
1990 - Canada Northern Selkirk Mountains, Mt.Saint Cyr, North Face 650/1200 v.m. up to 45º
1990 - Canada Durrand Glacier, Innominata Tower, North Face 600/800 v.m. up to 45º
1994 - Canada Mt.Baal North Face (standart route) 300/1500 v.m. up to 45º
1995 - Canada Augustine Peak, S Selkirks 500/900 v.m. up to 45º
1995 - Canada Augustine Peak, S Selkirks 500/900 v.m. up to 45º
1997 - Canada Durrand Glacier, Tumbledown Mtn, Direct South Face Couloir 850/1300 v.m. up to 50º
1998 - Canada St.Elias Range, Mt.Logan 5995 m el, snow-board Up to 45º
2000 - Canada St.Elias Range, Mt.Steel 5080 m.el, snow-board descent Up to 40º
2000 - Canada St. Elias Range, Mt.Lucania 5230 m. el, snow-board descent Up to 40º
2000 - Canada Durrand Glacier, Mt.Durrand, East Ridge Couloir 600/1000 v.m. up to 45º
2002 - Alaska Wrangle - St.Elias Range, Mt.Bona 5010 m.el. Up to 40º
2004 - Canada Durrand Glacier, Mt.Graham, East Face 500/1600 v.m. up to 48º
2009 - Canada Durrand Glacier, Mt.Graham, NE Face 800/1800 v.m. up to 55º

High Altitude Expeditions

Year Area  
1979 Nepal Guiding in Nepal, Thapa Peak 6012 meters, Kalagandaki Valley (climbing, guiding clients)
1996 St. Elias Range, Yukon Mt. Logan (skiing, guiding clients)
1997 St. Elias Range, Yukon

Nepal
Mt. Lucania (skiing, guiding clients)
Mt. Steel (skiing, guiding clients)
Manaslu (climbing, not successful)
1999 St. Elias Range, Yukon Mt. Logan (skiing, guiding clients)
2001 St. Elias Range, Yukon
Nepal
Mt. Bona, Mt. Churchill (skiing, guiding clients)
Trekking Peak, Kalapatar
2003 St. Elias Range, Yukon
Ecuador
Mt. Bona and Mt. Churchill
Cotopaxi (climbing, guiding my daughter Charlotte, 10 years of age at the time)
2004 St. Elias Range, Yukon Mt. Logan, Mt. Aina (skiing, guiding clients)
2005 St. Elias Range, Alaska Mt. Bona, Mt. Churchill (skiing, guiding clients)
2006 St. Elias Range, Alaska Mt. St. Elias (climbing, guiding one client)
2008 St. Elias Range, Alaska and Yukon Mt. Logan, skiing, guiding clients
2009 St. Elias Range, Alaska Mt. Bona, Mt. Churchill (skiing, guiding clients)

First Ascents

Mixed Mountaineering, Alpine Rock, Sport Climbing, Ice Climbing

251 first ascents while guiding clients and with friends.

Location Route Name Difficulty Length of Climb
1977 Swiss Alps
Klausen, Gabchopf Fasnachtsverschneidung V (5.9) 7 pitches
Klausen, Signalstock Direkte Sudwand VI A0 (5.10b, A0) 13 pitches
1978 Italy
Mont Blanc du Maudit Country Couloir WI 5 600 v.meter
1979 Swiss Alps
Urneralpen, Herefellifluh Eskaminzin VII (5.10d) 7 pitches
1982 Canada
Southern Selkirk Mountains South Albert Pk, North Ridge PD+ 5.5 600 v.meters
Monashee Mt. Range Mt. Begbie: 3 Summit Intergral East to West D- 5.8 2.5 km
1983 Canada
Roger's Pass Mt.Smart, Direct North Couloir from Illecillawaet River (ascent/ski-descent) 45 degr. 1800 v. meters.
Southern Monashee's Mt. Begbie, direct North Face (ascent/ski-descent) 55 degr. 300 v.meters
Revelstoke BC Revi-Dam Fall WI 4 2 pitches
Roger's Pass BC Mt. Cheops S-Face, The Line WI 5 150 v.meters
Roger's Pass BC Hermit Mtn, North Buttress TD- 5.10a 500 v.meters
Roger's Pass BC Swiss Pk, South Couloir AD 5.7 250 v.meters
Roger's Pass BC Tupper - Camels, South Couloir - East Ridge AD+ 5.7 / 50 degr. 1000 v.meter
N.Selkirks, Gothics Range Pioneer Pk, Left NE-Buttress D 5.8 / 45 degr. 230 v.meter
N.Selkirks, Gothics Range Pioneer Pk, Right NE Buttress D 5.9 . 45 degr. 230 v.meter
1985 Canada
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Mt.Ruth, NW Face PD 50 degr. 220 v.meter
Three Valley Gap BC Beside Hotel, The Fine Line WI 5 120 v.meter
1986 Canada
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Canadian Cliff, Water Symphony 5.11a 7 pitches
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Allalin Pk. - Mt.Durrand Inferno Traverse PD 5.4 / 50 degr. 4 km.
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Snow Cap, NE-Face PD 50 degr. 150 v.meter
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Symphony Pk, South Ridge PD 4th to 5.5 0.5 km
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Centrale Pk, NW-Ridge PD 4th to 5.5 300 v.meters
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Centrale Pk, North Face PD 45 degr. 300 v.meters
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Mt.Durrand, Direct North Face PD 5.7 / 45 degr. 500 v.meter
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Mt.Durrand, Direct E-Ridge Couloir TD- 5.9+ / 55 degr. 550 v.meter
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Mt.Durrand, West Ridge PD- 4th to 5.5 220 v.meter
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Diamond Pk, SW-Ridge PD- 4th to 5.2 300 v.meter
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Diamond Pk, Pioneer Buttress D- 5.8 300 v.meter
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Diamond Pk, Explorer Face D- 5.8 350 v.meter
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Salbyt Pk, NW-Ridge TD 5.10a 360 v.meter
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Hidden Pk, North Buttress TD- 5.10a 360 v.meter
1987 Canada
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Tumbledown Mtn, SW-Ridge D- 5.5 / 45 degr. 950 v.meter
1988 Canada
Roger's Pass, BC Avalanche Peak, NW-Couloir - NRC Couloir (ascent / ski-descent) 55 degr. 700 v.meters
Roger's Pass, BC Mt. Green, NW Couloir from Illecillawaet River (ascent / ski-descent) 47 degr. 1450 v.meters
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Bastille, East Face PD 45 degr. 200 v.meter
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Mt.Durrand East Ridge Couloir - East Ridge D 5.9 / 45 dgr. 550 v.meter
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Mt.Ruth, West Ridge PD- 4th to 5.5 300 v.meter
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Eagle Pk - Mt.Fang Mozart's Skywalk PD- 4th to 5.6 1.4 km.
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Eagle Pk, Centre Couloir D 5.8 / 50 degr. 200 v.meter
1989 Canada
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Eagle Pk, West Ridge PD- 4th to 5.5 200 v.meters
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Mt.Fang, NE-Face D- 5.6 / 45 degr. 230 v.meter
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Point Juliana, Juliana Tongue D+ 50 to 65 degr. 5 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Fridolin Pk, East Ridge PD- 4th to 5.6 340 v.meter
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Zwilling's East Pk NE-Couloir - North Ridge D 5.6 / 45 degr 300 v.meter
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Mt.Graham, Super Couloir D- 45 degr. 800 v.meter
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Mt.Graham, NW-Face D 5.5 / 45 degr. 1000 v.meter
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Mt.Fang North Couloir - Southeast Ridge D 5.9 320 v.meter
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Mt.Graham, Y-Couloir D+ 5.6 / 55 degr. 880 v.meter
1990 Canada
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Innominata Tower, North Ridge D- 5.7 300 v.meter
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Salbyt Pk, Upper Innominata Ridge D 5.9 500 v.meter
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Empress Pk, North Ridge PD 5.6 1 km.
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Empress Pk, Old West Face Slabs D 5.9 5 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Fridolin Pk, Fridolin Ridge TD 5.10d 17 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Zwilling's East Pk, South Ridge TD 5.10c 19 pitches
1991 Canada
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Mt. La Forme, South Ridge PD- 4th to 5.5 300 v.meter
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Point Juliana, North Face D+ 5.8, 60 degr 520 v.meter
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Sentinel Pk, South Ridge D- 5.8 0.7 km
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Silent Pk, West Ridge (Standard Route) PD 5.6 520 v.meter
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Silent Pk, Domino Ridge PD+ 5.7 320 v.meter / 1 km
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Silent Pk, Old South Face Route D+ 5.10a 13 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Mt. Moloch South Face Gully D+ 5.6 / 50 degr. 300 v.meter
1992 Canada
Albert Canyon, BC Dark Side Of The Moon 5.12a 2 pitches
Albert Canyon, BC Lauretta Slabs, Koby's Wild Ride 5.10a 3 pitches
Albert Canyon, BC Lauretta Slabs, Stranger's In The Night 5.10d 3 pitches
Albert Canyon, BC Lauretta Slabs, Images In Flight 5.11a 2 pitches
Albert Canyon, BC Lauretta Slabs, Phantom Of The Opera 5.11b 2 pitches
Selkirks, Moloch Range Silent Peak - Sentinel Peak Rings Of Exposure D- 5.8 500 v.meter / 2.4 km
1993 Canada
Albert Canyon, BC Lauretta Slabs, Via Charlotte 5.10a 7 pitches
Revelstoke, BC Begbie Bluffs, Sound Of The Water 5.11a 1 pitch
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Zwilling's West, West Face D 5.9 230 v.meter
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Mt.Moloch, North Face ED1+ 5.10a/45 degr 1100 v.meter
Albert Canyon, BC Lauretta Slabs, Rigoletta 5.11a 1 pitch
Albert Canyon, BC Lauretta Slabs, La Traviata 5.11d 2 pitches
Revelstoke, BC Begbie Bluffs, Via Florina 5.12a 1 pitch
Revelstoke, BC Begbie Bluffs, Flushdance 5.11a 1 pitch
Revelstoke, BC Begbie Bluffs, Supertramp 5.11a 1 pitch
Revelstoke, BC Begbie Bluffs, Superlative 5.11b 1 pitch
1995 Canada
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Twin Fall Cliff, Slab Waltz 5.9 7 pitches
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Carnes Cliff, Serac Sprinter 5.10a 6 pitches
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Canadian Cliff, Waterfall Ballet 5.10a 7 pitches
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Mt. La Forme, NE-Ridge D 5.9 300 v.m. / 0.8 km
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier La Forme Spire, (Standard Route) AD- 4th  
1996 Canada
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Canadian Cliff, Vagabond 5.10a 5 pitches
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Canadian Cliff, New York Buzz 5.9 5 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Area White Fang, NW-Couloir D 5.9+ / 45 degr. 300 v.meter
N.Selkirks, Moloch Area Grey Fang, SW-Ridge TD- 5.10a 270 v.meter / 1 km
N.Selkirks, Moloch Area Zwilling's East, East Ridge D 5.8 360 v.meter / 0.8 km
1997 Canada
Revelstoke, Begbie Bluffs Paper-Cut 5.12c 1 pitch
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Tumbledown Mtn, South Face Gully D 5.6 / 55 degr. 950 v.meter
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Carnes Peak, East Face D 5.8 / 45 degr. 450 v.meter
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Grey Fang, Direct West Ridge TD 5.10 b solo 440 v.meter
1999 Canada
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Canadian Cliff, Aqua Buttress 5.9 6 pitches
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Canadian Cliff, H2O 5.10b 3+4 pitches
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Canadian Cliff, Shane's Limbo 5.10b 7 pitches
2000 Canada
Roger's Pass BC Mt. Green, North Face WI 5 300 v.meters
Roger's Pass BC Cougar Mtn. S-Side, Confused Ambition WI 5- 60 v.meters
Revelstoke, Begbie Bluffs Dr. Evil 5.12a 1 pitch
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Canadian Cliff, David 5.10c 6 pitches
2001 Canada
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Empress Peak, Poltergeist 5.10c 6 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Silent Peak, Rock'n Silence TD 5.11a 13 pitches
2002 Canada
Roger's Pass BC Camels - Mt. Tupper Integral East Ridge TD 5.10a 1500 v.meter/2.1 km
Revelstoke, Silvertip C. Indian Summer 5.12b 1 pitch
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Twin Falls Cliff, Le Mirroir d'Durrand 5.10d 7 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Salbyt Pk, Integral Innominata Ridge D 5.9 800 v.meter/2.2 km
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Empress Peak, Bellissimo 5.12a 7 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Empress Peak, Granite World 5.10c 5 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Fridolin Peak, Bringing Out the Devil 5.10c 6 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Silent Peak, Silent Grace TD 5.11a 11 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Zwilling's East Pk, Epilogue D 5.9 350 v.meter
2003 Canada
Revelstoke BC Waterworld, Desporado's Last Ride 5.10d 1 pitch
Revelstoke BC Mermaid 5.11a 4 pitches
Revelstoke BC Drive-In, Great Ball of Fire 5.11b 1 pitch
Revelstoke BC Begbie Falls Wall, Rain Came Down 5.10d 1 pitch
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Carnes Cliff, A Date with My Girl 5.8 7 pitches
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Carnes Cliff, Grace and Force 5.11a 6 pitches
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Carnes Cliff, Jaegermeister's Harem 5.11a 2 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Fridolin Peak, Mama Mia TD 5.10c 8 pitches
2004 Canada
Revelstoke BC Waterworld, Burning Ambition 5.12a 3 pitches
Revelstoke BC Waterworld, Raven's Destiny 5.11b 3 pitches
Revelstoke BC Waterworld, Ginger 5.9 2 pitches
Revelstoke BC Waterworld, Skipper 5.11a 1 pitch
Revelstoke BC Waterworld, No Panic in The Titanic 5.11b 2 pitches
Revelstoke BC Waterworld, Madness 5.11b 2 pitches
Revelstoke BC Waterworld, The Boulevard 5.9 2 pitches
Revelstoke BC Waterworld, Mutiny 5.10c 3 pitches
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Carnes Cliff, Five Decades 5.9 1 pitch
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Carnes Cliff, The Groove 5.8 1 pitch
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Carnes Cliff, Aqua Birthday 5.9 1 pitch
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Carnes Cliff, White Water Climbing 5.9 1 pitch
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Carnes Cliff, Girly Cabaret 5.9 7 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Empress Peak, Paradise City 5.11b 7 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Empress Peak, Areta Rasica 5.11a 7 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Fridolin Buttress, Lightning Fear 5.11a 2 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Fridolin Buttress, Bionic Man 5.10c 1 pitch
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Fridolin Buttress, Selkirk Soiree 5.10b 1 pitch
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Fridolin Buttress, Selkirk Arête 5.11b 2 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Fridolin Buttress, Rainy Day-Dream 5.11a 2 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Fridolin Buttress, Rainman 5.10d 2 pitches
2005 Canada
Revelstoke BC Waterworld, Bon Voyage 5.11a 4 pitches
Revelstoke BC Le Grand Bleu 5.10d 4 pitches
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Carnes Cliff, Left Wing 5.9 1 pitch
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Carnes Cliff, Right Wing 5.10c 1 pitch
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Innominata Face, Obsessed Adventure TD 5.11b 12 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Concordia Pillar, Hillbilly Highway ED- 5.12b A0 17 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Empress Peak, Copperhead Road 5.10c 4 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Concordia Pillar, The Naked Pillar TD 5.11a 17 pitches
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Empress Peak, Pina Colada 5.10b 9 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Empress Peak, Heidi-Land 5.9 8 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Sentinel Slabs, Rock Town 5.9 3 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Zwilling's East, Prologue 5.10c 9 pitches
2006 Canada
Revelstoke BC Waterworld, Pirots of The Waterworld 5.10b 3 pitches
Revelstoke BC Waterworld, Walk of Life 5.11a 3 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Innominata Face, Hot Attraction TD 5.10c 13 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Empress Peak, Micheluzzi 5.11b 6 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Empress Peak, Direct West-Face Slabs 5.10d 8 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Sentinel South, SW-Ridge PD 5.6 1 km
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Sentinel Slabs, Meditation 5.8 3 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Sentinel Slabs, Dihedral Blues 5.8 3 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Sentinel Slabs, Slab-Crack 5.8 3 pitches
2007 Canada
Revelstoke BC Waterworld, Ambitious Raven 5.11b 3 pitches
Three Valley Gap BC Tourist Wall, Johnny B. Goode 5.10b 3 pitches
Three Valley Gap BC Crystal in The Sky 5.10b 3 pitches
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier Mt.Durrand, Northstep Couloir D 5.6 / 50 degr. 500 v.meter
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Innominata Face, Dance Me to The End... TD 5.10c 11 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Innominata Face, Daydreamer D+ 5.10a 7 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Innominata Face, Rather Climb and Live TD- 5.10b 7 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Moloch Crag, Rednecks Just Don't Get It 5.10b 2 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Moloch Crag, An Inconvenient Truth 5.12a 1 pitch
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Moloch Crag, Live Earth 5.11a 1 pitch
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Moloch Crag, Mourning the Planet 5.10c 1 pitch
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Moloch Crag, Where Have the Glaciers Gone 5.11a 3 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Zwilling's East, Direct South Ridge TD 5.10c 18 pitches
2008 Canada
Revelstoke BC Columbia Buttress, The Hanging Judge 5.10b 5 pitches
Revelstoke BC Columbia Buttress, Convicted 5.11b 6 pitches
Revelstoke BC Columbia Buttress, The Noose 5.11c 16 pitches
Revelstoke BC Columbia Buttress, The Last Tango 5.10a 16 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Fridolin Wall, Avventura Sulla Roccia 5.11a 1 pitch
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Fridolin Wall, Via Bonatti 5.10d 2 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Fridolin Wall, Dances with The Ghosts 5.10d 3 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Fridolin Wall, Emilio Comici 5.11a 2 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Fridolin Wall, Cross Road 5.10b 3 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Hidden Wall, Ghost Rider 5.10b 3 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Hidden Wall, Utopia 5.10b 3 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Hidden Wall, Gino Solda 5.10c 3 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Hidden Wall, Detoured Express 5.10b 3 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Berlin Wall, Jumping The Wall 5.11b 3 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Berlin Wall, Walk The Line 5.10c 8 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Sentinel South, Skywalker 5.10d 2 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Sentinel Slabs, Penelope's Trot 5.9 3 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Fridolin Peak, El Arête Sin Nombre D 5.9 9 pitches
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Moloch Crag, Pink Floyd 5.8 1 pitch
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Moloch Crag, Led Zeppelin 5.8 1 pitch
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Moloch Crag, The Stones 5.10a 1 pitch
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range Moloch Crag, U2 5.9 1 pitch
2009 Canada
N Selkirk, Moloch Range Mt.Baal NW-Ridge D 5.5 50 degr. 400 v.m / 0.9 km
N Selkirk, Moloch Range Fridolin Buttress, Cheeders of the Last Arc 5.11d 2 pitches
N Selkirk, Moloch Range Fridolin Wall, Careless Mind 5.11c 2 pitches
N Selkirk, Moloch Range Fridolin Wall, O Solo Mia 5.11a 2 pitches
N Selkirk, Moloch Range Moloch Crag, Solar Pannel 5.10c 2 pitches
N Selkirk, Moloch Range Moloch Crag, Greenhouse Effect 5.11a 2 pitches
N Selkirk, Moloch Range Innominata Tower Direct North Ridge 5.10d 420 v.m / 1 km
N Selkirk, Moloch Range Fridolin Buttress, The Diagonal 5.8 2 pitches
N Selkirk, Moloch Range Fridolin Buttress, Puls 5.10d 2 pitches
N Selkirk, Moloch Range Sentinel Slabs, Dancing Queen 5.10c 4 pitches
N Selkirk, Moloch Range Sentinel Buttress, Lightning Crack 5.10c 2 pitches
N Selkirk, Moloch Range Mt.Fang, Homocidal Bitch 5.9 26 pitches
Columbia Buttress, Revelstoke Eternity 5.10b 13 pitches
Upper Blanket Wall, Revelstoke High Exposure 5.9 2 pitches
Shampoo Wall, Revelstoke Tree Rustler 5.10c 1 pitch
2010 Canada
N Selkirk, Moloch Range Concordia Pillar, Viva La Vita 5.13a 11 pitches
N Selkirk, Moloch Range Fridolin Buttress, Rock Poets 5.10b 2 pitches
N Selkirk, Moloch Range Fridolin Buttress, Short Story 5.11a 1 pitch
N Selkirk, Moloch Range Fridolin Buttress, Torre Piccolo 5.10a 1 pitch
N Selkirk, Moloch Range Fridolin Buttress, Little Big Man 5.10b 1 pitch
N Selkirk, Moloch Range Concordia Pillar, The Northern Shield
First free ascent by Tommy Caldwell, 5.13b
July 17 2011
5.12c A0 6 pitches
N Selkirk, Moloch Range Fridolin Wall, Ace in the Hole 5.11d 2 pitches
Revelstoke BC Victor Lake Wall, Ninth Symphony 5.11d 12 pitches
2011 Canada
Revelstoke BC Victor Lake Wall, Return of the Osprey 5.11c 12 pitches
Revelstoke BC Victor Lake Wall, Restless Spirits 5.11d 7 pitches
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range Oar House, Lightning Rod 5.10b 2 pitches
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range Moloch Crag, Lurking Challenge 5.11d 2 pitches
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range Moloch Crag, Ice Age 5.10d 1 pitch
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range Innominata Face, Fantastico 5.12a 9 pitches
Revelstoke BC Victor Lake Wall, Trans Canada 5.10c 11 pitches
Revelstoke BC Victor Lake Wall, Pan-America 5.10c 15 pitches
2012 Canada
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range Upper Ore House, Tower of Song 5.10c 2 pitches
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range Upper Ore House, Spaziergang 5.11b 2 pitches
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range Upper Ore House, Umweg 5.11c 3 pitches
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range Upper Ore House, Wanderlust 5.11b 2 pitches
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range Lower Ore House, Ore House Arête 5.10c 2 pitches
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range Lower Ore House, Greenlight District 5.9 3 pitches
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range Lower Ore House, Never Say Never 5.11b 1 pitch
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range Lower Ore House, Adapt or Die 5.12a 1 pitch
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range Moloch Crag, Solar Panel Direct 5.11c 2 pitches
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range Moloch Crag, The Who 5.8+ 2 pitches
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range Moloch Crag, Steppenwolf 5.10b 1 pitch
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range Lower Ore House, Empty Nest 5.8 8 pitches
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range Innominata Face, Fantastico 5.11b 10 pitches
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range Juliana Buttress, The Corner 5.10c 3 pitches
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range Juliana Buttress, Glacier Express 5.10c 6 pitches
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range Juliana Buttress, The Line 5.10d 3 pitches
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range Upper Ore House, Caffé Latte 5.11c 2 pitches
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range Upper Ore House, Surprice 5.11d 2 pitches
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range Mt.Baal - Mt.Moloch, Intergral Traverse
Mt.Baal West-Ridge NW-Couloir - Baal NW-Ridge - Traverse to Mt.Moloch - Mt.Moloch East Summit
5.9 /
55 degr. ice
762 vert. metres
3300 metre long ridge
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range Sentinel Slabs, Mami's Abenteuer 5.10b 4 pitches
Revelstoke BC Victor Lake Wall, The Last Spike 5.10c 10 pitches
2013 Canada
Revelstoke BC Victor Lake Wall, The Last Spike 5.10c 10 pitches
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range Hidden Wall, Idealists in the Mist 5.8 4 pitches
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range Sentinel Slabs 5.9 3 pitches
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range Lower Ore House, Fission 5.12a 1 pitch
Revelstoke BC Victor Lake, Mystery 5.12c 9 pitches
Revelstoke BC Victor Lake, Grande Finale 5.12c 7 pitches